I was the first surfer in our family. I got into it from skateboarding, when I lived in Florida. I went to big wave surfing in PR. My quiver consisted of one custom made board that I designed (fluted rails), about 5'10 - I glassed it too (earned the nickname "Resin Man" since I ended up glassing +everybody's+ +everything+ after that and had it eternally on me somehow), a G+S 5'10 and a 6'1 Gun from Sunset Beach Surfboards.
I have surfed Laguna, Salt Creek, Dana Point, Playa Azul, La Pared, The Jungle, Perdido Key, The Fortress, Hobos, Turtles, and a Big Wave Cloud Break out Past La Selva.
I am totally landbound and I am climbing the mother fuckin' walls today. All day in a hospital lobby. I am a nice guy but damnit. I want to go rip. I just googled my cousin for the first time in my life and found out how pathetic my life is. What would it be like to have his job...This damn job of mine is for dweebs. I want out.
Rats. I have to go to the bank.